The Journey (Monday 30th –Tuesday 1st October)

At approximately 13.00 on the 30th September, Jason Nichols arrived to collect me and take me to Stanstead Airport, for the first part of a long awaited (over a year) trip to South Luangwa, Zambia, arranged by Anna Needham at Audley Travel.

We arrived in plenty of time and after checking in the hold baggage we sat outside watching Pied Wagtails coming into roost, whilst staff scraped chewing gum off the pavement!

Soon it was time to go through security and it was then we parted company and eventually I bordered the Emirates flight to Dubai, which left on time at 21.10.

After a flight lasting around 7 hours we touched down in Dubai at 7.10 where I had assistance (and good job too!) for the next leg to Lusaka, Zambia. The ‘buggy ride’ was interesting as when I suggested this was like driving in Mumbai the driver said that was where he was from! Over qualified I thought, even for Dubai Airport and said as much.

Another couple of hours elapsed as I waited to board the flight to Lusaka, which after more security checks the aircraft left at 21.25 and another approximately 7 hour flight to Lusaka, which finally arrived after a failed landing due to an Ethiopian plane being on the runway (information courtesy of Jason via his app after arriving home) we landed at Lusaka at 14.35 now 1st October.

A scrutiny to why I was here then ensued at check-in before my passport was stamped!

Emirates had managed to lose my hold luggage and other people’s too and there was no assistance in the airport; as I found out later they weren’t allowed in!  There was nothing for it but to leave without the luggage as the flight to Mfuwe was boarding, but once outside I spoke finally to my assistance and they made calls and put down a plan to recover my luggage and have it delivered to Nkwali Camp.

Needless to say, the 2 hour wait for the flight to Mfuwe was not noticed as I tried to spot my luggage on the conveyer, but the luggage never materialised.

I quickly walked with my assistance to the departure gate seeing my first African bird on the way; an African Pied Wagtail.

After more security checks the Proflight flight to Mfuwe took place and I helped a lady with her luggage board the plane, as she had a small child with her. I found out that this was Emma Kennedy who was on her way to work for Zambia Carnivore Programme, which she was very excited about.

After a very hot flight we landed about 17.45 and I gave Emma a business card, in the hope she would let me know how her job was going (there was an email waiting for me from Emma when I arrived back), after which I met my driver Mark (from Robin Pope Safaris-the safari company the tour had been booked with) who took me part of the way to Nkwali before I changed vehicles and went with Charles another driver, seeing a White-tailed Mongoose just before Nkwali.

Arrival at Nkwali and a very rare Owl before dinner

Finally I arrived at my home for the next few days (Robin Pope's Nkwali Camp), which began at the bar where I met more really nice Zambians, including Kanga. They offered me a drink and although very fatigued my mood lifted and I accepted a beer, appropriately I chose Wild Dog!

After another beer, Kiki the camp manager arrived to greet me and then he showed me to my chalet. The place was great, near the river and although there was a metal grill now over the chalet’s entrance (to stop animal intrusion!) with a curtain behind this I could see the potential for some great sightings and sounds from my new abode.

As I left the chalet I was taken to the dining area with the pond behind it. Here (on my first night) was a Pel’s Fishing Owl a very rare Owl and a species sought after by the birding/twitcher brigade-fantastic!

Dinner was announced with a drum solo and I sat down to a nice meal with the other guests; some more annoying than others, but still keeping an eye on the owl, which no one else seemed interested in! This lack of interest from all of the other guests in presumably what they had come to see; African wildlife continued throughout the trip!

With Kiki assuring me he would get my missing luggage back, I retired for the night, but despite the very long journey affecting my ME/CFS I could not sleep as far too interested in the calls and noises I heard outside! 

Wednesday 2nd October

Nkwali Camp and Luangwa River

Finally, after getting some, sleep after listening to various calls including Frogs, Cicadas, Hippos, Egyptian Geese, a Lion roaring, a curious descending call (which I later learnt was a juvenile Pel’s Fishing Owl calling for food) and a Hippo munching grass just outside I got myself ready and headed bar-wards for breakfast.

After seeing several endearing Vervet Monkeys carrying young in the grounds of the camp, I was still in time to get a cup of tea. I had asked not to be given a wake-up call to go on the morning safari as I knew I needed to rest. However, the view over the Luangwa River from the bar was great and my binoculars and camera were soon put to good use.

Crocodiles and Hippopotamus could be seen and both Puko and Waterbuck were made out on the far side of the riverbank and some really good birds beginning with the very attractively-coloured Saddle-billed Stork. 2 Great White Egrets, Common and Wood Sandpipers, Greenshank, Egyptian Geese, Collared Pratincoles, Wattled Lapwings, Southern Carmine Bee-eaters, African Sacred and Hadada (pronounced Ha-de dah) Ibis (the former quite close), Swallow and Martin species, a flock of 15+ Meve’s Starlings flew over into the trees, several Ruff, a Striated Heron flew past and a Trumpeter Hornbill flew over the river, before spotting a bird I really wanted to see a Southern Ground Hornbill on the far bank! In fact there were 2 adults of this now rare hornbill in Africa. A good species to find was a White-fronted Plover, which was photographed albeit at distance as was a Swift species possibly an African Palm Swift and a Hirundine species most probably a Red-throated Crag Martin.

The 'Pond' near the dining area

A look at the ‘pond’ next to the evening dining area found another bird I always wanted to see, since boyhood; an African Jacana or Lily-trotter. 

Also here were at least 2 species of Dragonflies and Terrapins. Mike Linley tells me that the Terrapins are Serrated-hinged Terrapin Pelusius sp. probably P. sinuatus but as usual (going back to a Terrapin, Mike identified for me in Kenya) you need to see the underside! Also very noticeable were what Mike tells me are subgular tentacles-two white profusions under neck.

The two Dragonflies appear to be a Lucia Widow Palpopleura lucia with its cloaked look and possibly a Red Basker Urothemis assignata with its bright red appearance, which looks like a Crocothemis species. Unfortunately at present I have very little information on African Odonata.

Vast numbers of Antlion hole-traps were right beside the dining areas staging in the sand and in the far bushes were Dark-capped Bulbuls (aka Dark-eyed) feeding on ripened black berries.

A Yellow Baboon appeared to my right and was picking up and eating flowers (possibly from a Sausage Tree), which made for some nice photography and it felt good to have the company of this primate with both of us quite comfortably sharing the space.

River Luangwa take-2 and outside the chalet photo opportunities

Back to the bar area for some more river-watching and I was not disappointed.

An African Sacred Ibis flew in again and the first Yellow-billed Kite flew over the river followed by an African Fish Eagle-brilliant!

I returned to my chalet briefly to check for would be Yellow Baboon intrusion but thankfully there was none and photographed two Butterfly species just outside the chalet: An orange-based species, ovipositing on a tree species, possibly a Common Leopard Phalanta phalantha and a Brown Pansy Junonia natalica seemingly ovipositing on fallen leaves.

After lunch at 11.30 with the dining experience announced by a drum solo, I headed back to the river; there was now a few Impala on the far bank as were 3 Waterbuck. A Hadada Ibis flew past quite close and was duly photographed as were some more Dark-eyed Bulbuls, again feeding on berries in the riverside shrubs.

Yellow Baboons were now everywhere in camp and there was some very young ones with their mothers.

Back at the chalet, a Bushbuck came just outside the bathroom and then in front of the chalet and an interesting Carpenter Bee sp. (after email exchange with Dr. Nick Owens) was seen and photographed as was a pair of Dragonflies in wheel on a tree branch; both species so far unidentified.

Return of the missing luggage and an afternoon/evening safari

Finally, my missing luggage was returned to my door by a kind member of staff (thank goodness as most of my electrical items required a USB adapter, which was in my hold luggage) and I could now give Kiki the unopened new toothbrush, toothpaste and phone lead-charger he had kindly given me, with the latter lent.

Another look at the river prior to going on the evening safari saw two Hippos moving back down to the river on the far side.

After a cup of tea, just before 16.00 we walked through the camp and down to the waiting boat via some steps set in the riverbank; a somewhat dubious descent!

We set off across the river, passed a Hippo pod and the occasional Crocodile before the boat was set into the sandbags on the other side and we walked across a path of sandbags to the bank seeing Banded Groundlings Brachythemis leucosticta on the way. The trucks were already on the other side and we boarded one of the vehicles with Kangachepe- Kanga for short (who I met the first night) as our driver and guide and it soon became apparent that he was very knowledgeable! We were given a bottle of water and we set off.

Puko were a short distance away and as we drove through the bush we passed Yellow Baboons, Vervet Monkeys and Impala before finding a Hippo out of the water. A Little Bee-eater was seen and duly photographed. I had seen this species in Kenya in 1999 but was very pleased to see and photograph it again. This time without getting 2 Ticks attached to me just above my eye!

Warthogs were then encountered, as were White-fronted Bee-eaters and an open area held more Warthogs and Impala. We then saw my first ever Kudo with ‘riding’ Yellow-billed Oxpeckers, then Helmeted Guineafowl and my first Baobab Tree.

More Impala were seen and they had Red-billed Oxpeckers on board and then Meve’s Starling, which I had seen earlier in the day as it happened but was not completely sure of their identity but Kanga, knew! Blue Waxbills (a beautiful little finch), Little Bee-eater again and a Red-necked Spurfowl were come across followed by Southern Red-billed Hornbill, more Puko and our first African Elephants but I couldn’t get any photos of them as they were screened by the bush; yes Elephants despite their size can disappear in the bush, as witnessed in Turkana, Kenya 1999!

An African Fish Eagle, a Ring-necked Dove were seen as we stopped for a Sundowner, a Wild Dog pale ale in my case and snacks! Whilst here, there were Hippos in the river, whilst Southern Carmine Bee-eaters flew around in the now fading light. A Hadada Ibis was seen and my first ever views of African Skimmer, a bird I had always wanted to see albeit in the gloom.  Distant views in the gloom of Crawshay’s Zebra were had before the spotlight came out and we searched the area for more nocturnal species.

The spotlight comes out, back to Nkwali Camp and guests in the chalet!

We didn’t find too much to start with but then Kanga stopped and the spotlight went on a Square-tailed Nightjar, identified by Kanga our very knowledgeable guide. Then we came across a mammal I was hoping to see; a Scrub Hare! Both the nocturnal species were photographed by setting the camera’s ISO up and using the spotlight as an artificial source of light; this seemed to work pretty well as it turned out.

Back at the edge of the river we boarded the waiting boat via coordinated torch light and a clear view of the stars. We passed the Hippo pod again, which apparently stayed in that particular area due to deeper water and the boat touched the sandbags. We ascended the ‘steps’ and already there was someone with a torch to lead us back through the camp, to another member of staff with a latticed small board with damp flannels on to wipe the dust away.

After freshening-up the drum sounded again and it was time for dinner. A nice meal was provided before heading back to the chalet with assistance; a man with a torch. As I was to discover, there were staff on duty all night and you couldn’t leave your chalet (and I tried!) without encountering a guide with a torch.

Two large Spiders not too dissimilar to the House Spiders in the UK were found in the chalet (one inside the Mosquito net around the bed) as   was a Gecko   in the bathroom, which I found out on my return, was a Tropical House Gecko Hemidactylus mabiuia. As usual, the reptile was identified by Mike Linley.   Also, an approximately 3 inch Centipede ran over my foot! I must admit I was very careful with the Centipede as I know some species are poisonous and rightly so as Mike Linley (who used to keep these!) told me it was a Scolopendra Centipede later identifying it to species level; Scolopendra morsitans), which could give you a nasty bite and possibly make you quite ill!

However, all three ‘guests’ were photographed before settling down for the night; well kind of, as still listening to the sounds of the bush!

Thursday 3rd Oct

Biodiversity of birds on the Luangwa and on safari with Chizzy

The early morning gentle wake-up call by one of the staff happened at 5.15 and so I got myself and equipment together and went to the bar area for breakfast-in my case just a cup of tea and a croissant, but there was lots on offer, including toast and eggs made over an open fire, porridge again over a fire and various jams and fruit juices.

I continued to watch the Luangwa River and there were at least 20 Collared Pratincoles flying over the water and landing on the sand banks. Then a species I saw the previous evening but in bad light an African Skimmer in fact three of them in total flying low over the river and luckily eventually flew back again, along with the ever present Egyptian Geese.

4 Southern Carmine Bee-eaters were also present and 2 African Openbill (Storks) were nearby at the river’s edge, whilst Hippos and Crocodiles were in the water.

So my guide for this morning’s safari was Chizwangd, Chizzy for short but seemed to be pronounced ‘cheesy’, which reminded me of a bully at school so I eventually called him Chezzy or Chizzy. Although there were a German couple with us, I soon built up a rapport with Chizzy and really began to enjoy this polite amenable and very knowledgeable Zambian, who I could also share a joke with even though sometimes our words to each other got lost in translation, but in a jovial fashion.

We walked through the camp to the awaiting boat and after the slightly dubious descent we boarded the boat and set off for the other side of the river, once again, passing the Hippo pod and seeing my first Yellow-billed Kite, which I initially mistook for a Black Kite but soon learnt it was a Yellow-billed. Thought it didn’t look quite right for a Black Kite, but then there was so much to see, I guess I can pardon myself for the error!

Sausage and Baobab Trees and more superb animal life

Our first real look at a Sausage Tree, with Chizzy getting out of the vehicle to show us a fallen fruit from the tree and even took a bite of it! Chizzy then went on to explain about what consumed the ripe fruit and indeed what didn’t! For instance; Hippos do Elephants don’t.

This was followed with views of Vervet Monkeys, Impala, Warthogs and a small Sparrow-like bird, which after much research appears to be a female Pin-tailed Whydah. At one time perched alongside a White-fronted Bee-eater and Blue Waxbills, Yellow Baboons, Ring-necked Dove, more Yellow Baboons with young and Crowned Hornbill followed and then White-fronted Bee eater again and then a Little Bee-eater was seen.

We came across an Elephant cow with young excavating a bank, presumably for water but probably more likely tree roots.

My first Brown-hooded Kingfisher followed and an African Green Pigeon, which was hard to photograph as it was behind branches and the first shots were useless, but I kept on it and it flew. I pressed the camera shutter a couple of times before it landed in a tree where there was another African Green Pigeon-great stuff!

A Dark-capped Bulbul was seen and what would appear to be a Holub’s Golden Weaver. More Ring-necked Doves were seen and another Brown-hooded Kingfisher and then a small bird I put down in my notes (very difficult to write notes with the vehicle bouncing up and down on some very uneven tracks, plus you might miss something whilst looking at the notebook!) as having a ‘spotted belly’ in the hope I would, with the photos figure out what it was and indeed I did; a female Red-throated Twinspot; a very attractive little bird!

We kept seeing Doves flying up from the tracks, presumably mostly Ring-necked Doves, and Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Blue Waxbills, White-fronted and Little Bee-eaters were seen again. 

Waterbuck feeding nearby was a photo opportunity too good to miss (as was everything I saw!) and this was followed by a small Eagle in the sky; a Brown Snake Eagle and then flight shots of an African Fish Eagle.

Carmine Bee-eater colony and a Common Sandpiper on a Hippo

Some really close views of a Little Bee-eater resulted in quite a few images taken, mainly because it was so close in lovely light, but also because it had caught an insect, which looked like a Fly sp. An African Pied Wagtail then came into focus, followed by Crocodiles basking beside the river and a Southern Carmine Bee-eater colony where we stopped for tea and coffee and cakes! 

Initially the colony was not in very good light but Chizzy guided me down the riverbank to a better position to photograph them. Hippos got recorded on camera at this point, including a male spreading its dung with its tail as it emerged, marking its territory, like they do! A single White-fronted Bee-eater was with the Carmines, but it was the Carmines that got photographed the most. I had hoped to see Carmines, as I knew it was at the right time of year, but still amazing to see this blur of flying ‘red’ birds.

A Common Sandpiper had hitched a ride on a Hippo, probably as an optimum place to catch disturbed prey items. Strange to see a familiar bird on the back of a Hippo, but this is Africa!

An Elephant was seen next further along the track and then we got to witness one feeding in a Sausage Tree at close quarters. The Ellie was completely relaxed and seemed to be pulling at a branch or gathering the un-ripened fruits, which Chizzy said they would feed on but not the mature fruits and not the flowers either. Fantastic stuff!

First Crawshay’s Zebras and Leadwood Trees

Next were Zebras; 5 Crawshay’s Zebras, my first and also at close range. A stallion was showing interest in a female and this showed in its genitalia! More Vervet Monkeys with young were close by, searching for food in the leaf litter and the photography swung between the monkeys and the Zebra.

Further on there was an area of Leadwood Trees Combretum imberbe.  The Leadwood is one of the largest trees in Africa, and it derived its name because the wood is extremely dense and heavy. As such, it is impermeable to termites and is one of the only wood species that sinks in water. Most of the trees here were dead but still standing, which they can do many years after they have died (which most of the trees here were), but it was here we came across our first Lilac-breasted Roller. A stunningly beautiful bird, which I had seen in Kenya before, but this, was my first opportunity to capture digital images and it perched on a Leadwood branch (nearly all the branches used by birds to perch on are perfect to photograph!).

We saw the side of a tree, which an Elephant had been feeding on before finding a Hippo out of the water grazing on some very dry grass.

We also saw a Namaqua Dove, called out by Chizzy as it flew off! A first for me but no photo!

Another session with an African Pied Wagtail followed before boarding the boat for the return trip across the river, but once on the other side after a wipe down with the usual damp flannel waiting for us the photography did not stop!

Back to camp and return to the ‘Pond’

2 Wide-billed Storks were on the pond, beside the dining and pool area, along with a Sacred Ibis, so I approached quietly and slowly and began to photograph the birds. The wings on the Wide-billed Storks were pretty big especially when they used them to balance when hunting and indeed when they flew. On one occasion one was seen to have a roundish object in its bill; a Snail sp. perhaps! How I would love to pond-dip in here!

Then I spotted a Black-headed Heron on the other side of the bridge, which I had walked across when I first arrived. Again a first for me and to get photos too was fantastic!

A female Vervet Monkey with its baby sat on the bridge, whilst another was feeding on plants at the edge of the pond. A risky strategy in Africa but I guess there was no real threat to the Vervets, although I was told there were small Crocs and Monitor Lizards in there, but I didn’t see either throughout my stay. Plenty of turbulence in the water though when a Dragonfly flew to close to the water’s surface!

A Crowned Hornbill was seen along with two White-fronted Bee-eaters and a Brown-hooded Kingfisher, which perched in the trees at the back of the pond and once again a Jacana was present along with the Pelusius Terrapins probably P. sinuatus. Then I saw a colourful bird, which I had not seen before and turned out to be a White-browed Robin Chat at the edge of the far side bushes. 

Back in the chalet, the general wildlife watching and photography still didn’t stop and both Baboons with young and a confiding Bushbuck were seen and photographed from over the bathroom wall. A Brown-hooded Kingfisher was also in the trees and two Banded Mongoose were seen at the back of the camp but unfortunately were disturbed by passing staff before I could photograph them. A Crowned Hornbill was also seen and in between times I had lunch at 11.30, I think!

Afternoon/Evening Safari with Chizzy and Issiah-and his gun!

Time for the evening safari and after a cup of tea we once again walked through the camp and boarded the boat for the other side of the river, where the Toyota Land Cruisers were waiting.

Chizzy was once again the driver and guide and on this occasion we were joined by Issiah; in his pale camouflage gear and armed with a rifle.

As usual we went past the Hippo pod and once on the other side and ‘docked’ we boarded the vehicle.

The first bird was a Little Bee-eater, before we came across a fairly large tented Spider web, but even Chizzy was not sure of what had made it and with my limited knowledge of Zambian Arachnids, nor did I!

Chizzy also stopped and got out to show us some Hippo dung, but this had strands of plastic in it; a very worrying sign, especially in this part of the world!

Encounter with a temperamental Bull Ellie!

Impala were seen along with Warthogs and birds were represented by both Little and White-fronted Bee-eaters and Ring-necked Dove and as we drove along the tracks we sighted a bull Elephant a short distance away.

Chizzy stopped the vehicle (probably reading the situation and what might come) and we watched the Elephant disappear behind some bushes. However, eventually he emerged from the other side of the bushes, just to the left and behind the vehicle and as I could be heard to say on the scrambled phone video pointing mainly at my feet; ‘he is not a happy boy’! This was probably the understatement of the year, because the ears were flapping the trunk went up and trumpeting all seemingly at the same time, the bull started heading at the back of the vehicle with increasing speed! Chizzy started the vehicle and almost in slow motion we headed away from the charging bull that was now a matter of a few feet from the back of the vehicle and for a brief moment I really thought he was going to connect with the back of the vehicle!

Once away from the charging bull, that had now stopped coming after us, probably satisfied that he had saw off the interloper/s I was heard to say on the still running video: ‘Think I need a drink’!

Chizzy suggested that it was possible that this particular individual had been approached too closely in the past, but whatever the case he was pretty annoyed and Chizzy did say that he had noticed the temporal secretions on the animal’s head, when I asked if he had seen this, as it is an indication that the bull is in musk and most probably very temperamental; and indeed he was!

Anyway, we continued with the drive, although the German lady with us, who had decided to go on the safari instead of staying and relaxing in camp, whilst her husband/partner went on a walking safari was pretty shook-up, saying she was about to climb into the seats in front. Personally; despite the brief instance when I thought the bull Elephant might connect with the vehicle (I cannot underline enough that he was very, very close and Issiah was preparing in case he had to shoot!) it was an experience and the highlight of the trip, thus far!

A perched White-fronted Bee-eater was next after our now usual sun downer (more Wild Dog Pale Ale), with more discussion about the ‘charge of the pachyderm’ particularly from the German lady. A nice pod of Hippos were in the river and a Water Thick-knee flew past and I managed to grab a couple of images, albeit now in very gloomy light and the same was the case for a fishing African Skimmer, but great to see and watch this bird again.

Spotlight Scrub Hare, Pel’s flies in, dinner and Bat visitor in the bathroom

Issiah manning the spotlight searched for any nocturnal creatures and I was delighted when he spotted a Scrub Hare and then another one shortly afterwards; I do like my bunny-orientated mammals!

A report of two African Wild Dogs during the evening drive unfortunately did not materialize so before dinner I had to settle for the Wild Dog Pale Ale instead. But Kiki the camp manager suggested if I drank enough of the beer I might see a Wild Dog!

Via the drumming of Phil (Collins) the drummer as I named him, dinner was imminent and during dinner a Pel’s Fishing Owl flew in and landed at the far side of the adjacent pond and a juvenile was heard also.

Back to the chalet and I had a small Bat visitor in the bathroom, briefly coming in on a couple of occasions before finally departing. With the sound of the usual Hippos I eventually went to sleep.

Beautiful Sunrise and African Wild Dog track

The 5.15 wake-up-call was followed by a cup of tea and croissants, before crossing the river with the sun rising to the awaiting vehicles on the other side of the river.

Again Chizzy was our guide and the first birds we saw were Helmeted Guineafowl, which would be seen practically every day and a beautiful sunrise to compliment the morning.

Some Elephants with a baby was seen next and then some Birdwatching found Southern Grey-headed Sparrow feeding on the ground with Blue Waxbills and an Emerald-spotted Wood Dove.

3 Red-necked Spurfowl (Spurfowl locally called Nkwali, which the camp was named after) were seen and Ring-necked Dove, Brown-hooded Kingfisher and then a Slender Mongoose bounding out across the track were seen, followed by 2 Banded Mongoose. A White-browed Caucal was a weird and wonderful bird to see as was a White-browed Robin Chat.

Dead Baboon, first Vultures in attendance and on the trail of a Leopard

The Yellow-billed Kite had settled on the ground and Chizzy said that the corpse was a dead Yellow Baboon. Sure enough it was and Chizzy and I left the vehicle to have a closer look. 

On closer inspection the scratch marks on its hind quarters and then when turned over blood around the throat definitely suggested a Leopard kill and not long ago! Chizzy suggested that the Elephant and troop of Yellow Baboons present could well have sent the Leopard back into cover, so we parked a fair distance away and waited to see if the Leopard came back.

By now two of both White-backed and Hooded Vultures (both species in decline like other species of Vulture) had assembled along with the Yellow-billed Kite. Unfortunately, this attracted several other vehicles and it was clear that the Leopard was unlikely to come back any time soon, so we went around the back of the tree line and looked for the Leopard but without success. 

Nevertheless, quite exciting stuff and both Crowned and Trumpeter Hornbills were seen in the area too. We went back to keep watch over the kill, whilst having tea and coffee and the usual cakes and snacks. Once the other vehicles had departed both the Hooded and White-backed Vultures and the Yellow-billed Kite came back and returned to feeding on the dead Yellow Baboon.



Greater Go-away Bird calls and a close up with an African Fish Eagle

We eventually continued on our way seeing a Crawshay’s Zebra mare with a foal and then a Greater Go-away Bird was heard; once again identified by Chizzy who certainly knew his bird calls and could mimic most of them too!

A Kudo followed and then a Crowned Hornbill perched in a tree, whilst the Kudo number went up to four and a Trumpeter Hornbill also perched in a tree. A Little Bee-eater was seen again, but so nice to keep ‘bumping’ into this attractive species followed by its larger cousins; Carmine Bee-eaters perched in a bush and a Southern Grey-headed Sparrow was looking for food on the ground.

Driving through the riverine woodland, Chizzy stopped and just above us was an adult African Fish Eagle perched on a branch. The eagle remained on the branch and many images were taken of this magnificent bird of prey. We then came across a Catfish head, obviously preyed on by a Fish Eagle and Chizzy got out and picked it up, something he tended to do now and again, so due to the nature of the things he was handling I decided not to go halves with him with the last cake, when we stopped for tea and coffee!

A Carpenter Bee sp. was seen again, followed with 2 Little and a White-fronted Bee-eater.  We came across a family group of Elephants and the young calf was trying to suckle from its mother and a nearby bull Elephant deciding it was a good spot to urinate!

Water source brings in a variety of ‘waterbirds’

Near some water we found Buffalo Weaver, Blacksmith Plover, Sacred Ibis, Great White Egret, Meve’s Starling and a White-browed Coucal nearby searching for food on the bank. Also here were both adult and juvenile Jacanas and White-fronted Bee-eaters, whilst to our right a herd of Elephants came to collectively drink.

A Crocodile was also seen out of the water and then we came across a Crawshaw’s Zebra and then Thornicroft’s Giraffes; great to see giraffes again and many images followed as one reached up to browse on the leaves of a tree.

Several Butterflies were seen including one Chizzy identified from an app on his phone as an Orange and Lemon.

Another Crocodile was out of the water as we parked the vehicle and Banded Groundlings were beside the sandbag walkway to the awaiting boat to take us back across the river.

Back at Nkwali for lunch and then off again on a sunset safari

Back at the chalet after the usual wipe-down with a wet flannel was a Wasp sp. entering a bamboo cane and once again a Bush Buck came outside the lodgings along with the now usual Yellow Baboons around the chalets with their young.

The drum announced the evening safari and after a cup of tea Chizzy, Issiah (with the rifle!), the German guy and I set out into the bush again. Once across the river and past the Hippo pod we boarded the vehicle and the first bird we came across was a Little Bee-eater, which, as usual I just had to photograph; again!

A Ring-necked Dove followed and then Chizzy found a White-bellied Sunbird, which after a bit of perseverance and patience, I managed to get some images of this beautiful little bird. A Red-billed Firefinch was then seen before a call on the radio stated that Kanga in the other vehicle had just flushed a Leopard!

A Leopard is flushed!

Needless to say we headed towards the Leopard sighting and it came out through the trees back-lit and finally my first ever Leopard was seen and photographed! Kanga left us to it and drove off with the very irritating Swiss woman who thought I sounded Scottish and left the leopard to us!

Chizzy carefully followed the Leopard, a female carefully working out where it was going to come into view again when it walked through the bush and it was clear Issiah was fully participating keeping an eye on the cat. A Red-necked Spurfowl ran out, whilst the Leopard made its way into the open and into the sunlight; fantastic! The Leopard appeared to disappear but Chizzy and Issiah knew where it was and I found myself parked up, a few feet (but comfortable distance for the cat) right beside this magnificent feline.

The cat was unperturbed by our presence and at one point shut its eyes and literally had an ironic-cat-nap! The question was, just how many photographs can you take of a Leopard; answer loads and I did; trying to photographically record everything she did and at one time the constant attention to the subject captured her yawning.

After a while she got up and casually strolled passed the vehicle. We continued to follow her and I was very impressed how Chizzy and Issiah were able to keep track of her as she passed through some tall grass. Her attention seemed to be on a distant herd of Impala and she made her way slowly through cover in their general direction, but they were still very distant and we tried to work out how she was going to get in striking distance of the antelope un-seen and indeed un-scented!

Darkness was falling fast and we left her to go about her business unhindered and headed back to the river side and our awaiting boat. An absolutely fantastic safari, yet again! Every safari is different and I continued to see more and more species and was still managing to photograph the majority of them; ‘hats off’ to Chizzy and Issiah who once again were superb guides.

Dinner, a visit from the Pel’s Fishing Owl and the indignity of a Swiss woman!

Back in camp I learnt from Kiki that Elephants had been seen going through camp earlier in the day; how did I miss that?! But the drum sounded and it was dinner time (Curry night in fact!) with another sighting of Pel’s Fishing Owl. Unfortunately, the Swiss woman had raised the stakes and was now having a go about how impolite the Masai were, people I had to defend and did, before making my excuses and leaving the table, tired of the dung-heap coming out of this woman’s mouth and her general intolerance and ignorance of other peoples. Chizzy as I found out later was very uncomfortable with what this woman was saying too but a bit like the Norfolk Wildlife Trust; who has to appear whiter than white (quote from Hickling warden) it was clear that Robin Pope Safaris followed the same protocol! 

Saturday 5th October

The day after the curry!

I woke up and realised very quickly things were not right! I was feeling pretty ill, most probably down to the curry the night before. However, I took some Imodium and went to the bar ‘ready’ for the morning safari, hoping I would be ok. I had a cup of tea and then went off with Chizzy and Issiah through the camp with Issiah finding me a Sun Squirrel the largest squirrel in the area on the side of a tree on the way.

We crossed the river and boarded the vehicle and went on our way finding a male Green-winged Pytilia. An Emerald-spotted Wood Dove was seen followed by a Hippo and 2 Little Bee-eaters.

A Waterbuck was seen, an African Pied Wagtail and a Crowned Hornbill, but it was no good I was too ill to continue and asked Chizzy if he would get me back to camp.

An Elephant was on the shore of the river feeding on tree branches and even though I was far from comfortable I took some photos.

I headed back to the chalet ‘without passing Go’ but saw Crowned Hornbill, Vervet Monkeys and Baboons before taking to my bed.

Kiki and Chizzy came to see me later in the afternoon, with Kiki saying we knew you were ill as there was not a camera lens poking out over the bathroom wall!  Kiki sent a bottle of dehydrating fluid over to me and basically I just rested and didn’t go to lunch or dinner.

That night I heard a juvenile Pel’s Fishing Owl calling begging for food but that was pretty much it for Saturday the 5th!

Martial Eagle and Elephant at Baobab



Still feeling a ‘bit under the weather’ I was awoken at approximately 5.15 by a member of staff and got my gear together and went for a cup of tea at the bar.

Today I was going out on safari with Chizzy and Issiah, or as we liked to refer to ourselves; the ‘A Team’! This was my last full day here and a very special one it turned out to be!

We boarded the boat as usual and set off across the Luangwa, passing the Hippos, to the awaiting vehicle. Water was given out and away we went.

A Yellow-billed Kite was over the river and it wasn’t long into the drive we found Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, an Elephant cow with a calf and then a Rattling Cisticola in a bush!

We stopped to look at Leopard tracks before seeing a Red-necked Spurfowl, now usually announced as ‘Nkwali’! Then Chizzy pointed out a Martial Eagle in the top of a tree. A large handsome eagle and we even managed to get even closer after some ‘approach shots’ were taken.

Two Carmine Bee-eaters were perched on a branch and then we came to an Elephant ripping into a Baobab Tree. We parked opposite and from close but a safe range watched the Ellie quite contently gathering food and were not in the slightest bit bothered by us, unlike a bull we previously saw, which was a greater distance away!

The Elephant theme didn’t go away for the next animal we saw; a Black-crowned Tchagra perching on Elephant dung, a fascinating bird to see with its stand-out white supercillium bordered by a black eye-stripe and crown stripe.

More Carmine Bee-eaters followed along with Wattled Lapwing (which we were seeing everyday) a Red-billed Quelea and White-browed Sparrow Weaver and then a group of 6 Kudo. Two Crawshay’s Zebra were next and nearby a Slender Mongoose ran out of some bushes but then paused on a log rather conveniently for the camera!

Thornicroft’s and a Mayfly!

We then came across a Thornicroft’s Giraffe with a calf and spent some time watching and photographing these majestic animals and in total saw 6 of these subspecies of Giraffe in relatively the same area, complete with attendant Yellow-billed Oxpeckers.

A wallowing Hippo was nearby and then I noticed there was a Mayfly species on the lens hood of my camera lens. There didn’t appear to be any suitable habitat nearby for what I know about Mayflies in the UK, but here it was and even Chizzy took photos with his phone.

Giraffe were seen again before we came across an Nkwali. There are three species of Spurfowl in the area and this was to be our second as Chizzy said this was a Swainson’s Spurfowl, which was duly photographed!

A cow Elephant with a calf were browsing from the side of the track up ahead and nearby was a handsome Lilac-breasted Roller and the effervescent Meve’s Starling. A Tree Squirrel sat in a bush long enough for several photographs before we stopped for tea and coffee beside a flooded area.  

Malachite and more at wetland area



Rather conveniently here was a Malachite Kingfisher. Now the light was not good but you manage and then Chizzy led me down the sandbank to get a slightly better angle to photograph this striking Kingfisher.

A Meve’s Starling was still around along with a Blacksmith’s Lapwing and I managed to get one half-decent shot of a Jacana as it flew past and some nice images of a Blue Waxbill preening on a branch.

I had been handed some nice cake to have with our drinks and due to its light crumbly nature a piece dropped on the ground. However, this didn’t go to waste as the Neve’s Starling came right in front of me to also enjoy the cake and in doing so I was able to get some nice images.

After taking a picture of my great guides; Chizzy and Issiah we carried on towards the river, where there were a couple of duelling Hippos albeit not a frantic fight for dominance and next to a sizeable pod of Hippos with their attendant Red-billed Oxpeckers.

Lion ‘twitch’!

It then became apparent, no doubt due to a radio message that there were two male Lions spotted. Having not seen any Lions yet I was keen to see them, but it came with a proviso; with Chizzy announcing we can’t stop if we are going to get there in time! I said go-for-it (hoping there was not something I wanted to photograph en-route!) and ‘the chase was on’ or birders would call it ‘twitching’. However, I think you can make an excuse for ‘twitching’ Lions?!

We found the Lions after a bit of a search and parked-up beside them; awesome! Both males were not very active as Lions aren’t when lying in the shade, apart from a bit of licking the paws and a bit of yawning (which was very much appreciated-photographically-wise) but great to be there with them.

It seemed unlikely we were going to get back in time for lunch (who cares about lunch sitting next to Lions?!) so I asked Chizzy and Issiah if it was ok with them to stay out, which it was. Chizzy and Issiah became very relaxed and I hope that this was in part (at least) down to me not being demanding like most guests. In fact Chizzy then recounted this story, where he had been blamed for something, which was clearly not his fault, but it was obvious this matter bugged him somewhat! 

I felt very privileged that these two Zambians were now talking openly without the usual protocol they are usually required to do and that they had trust in me; it felt like we were just three friends having a conversation, something I will never forget! This echoed the friendship I made with Peter and Joseph 25 years ago in Kenya. Whilst I know people just come and go in the safari industry, for at least a short time I felt like I belonged.

Warthog and Thornicroft’s Giraffes appeared behind the Lions but didn’t venture close enough to become dinner, perhaps they knew the Lions were there and not in hunting mode. ‘Prey animals’ seem to know when danger is imminent and when it is not, otherwise they would never conserve energy. However, for the unwary and least experienced death is always an imminent threat in this ecosystem. How well other animals appear to be adapted compared to us Homo sapiens!

We left the Lions and then came across one of their prey items; a small herd of Cape Buffalo along with Yellow-billed Oxpeckers cleaning up the ticks from the face and up the nostrils of the buffalo. A foraging Thornicroft’s Giraffe with a Cape Buffalo were in the same scope of vision and I tried to capture the Giraffe feeding along with the African vignette of giraffe and buffalo. 

Kudu bull, Southern Ground Hornbill and the biggest nest in the world!

A very impressive male Kudo was seen and photographed before a great encounter with both an adult and juvenile Southern Ground Hornbill. It was such a privilege to see and photograph these birds at close range. Now a very rare Hornbill and in some parts of Africa nestboxes are being put up to try and compensate for the loss of habitat and available nesting sites for these majestic birds.

I had seen Hammerkops (well one or two!) in Kenya 1999 but had not seen one in the Luangwa Valley, but Chizzy showed me a nest. It was amazing to see this huge nest, seen on TV before but never seen in real life until now. Chizzy was slightly apologetic it wasn’t the bird itself but I said to him that not many people in the UK had ever seen this incredible nest so a great sighting in itself.

A small herd of Puko was next followed by a drinking Yellow Baboon and Saddle-billed Stork, which seemed to pull a root up of a plant, although I could see the shape of a Frog sp. at the end of the stem. Two Sacred Ibis were close-by to the stork, as was my first sighting of a juvenile Jacana. A cow Elephant and calf were, as always, great to see and the cow seemed to be leg-stretching.

Two juvenile African Fish Eagles were found next perched high up in the trees. At first I was not sure what they were until Chizzy announced they were juveniles, which are not that similar to the adult Fish Eagles, except in size. I managed to get quite a few flight shots of these large raptors before we came across two Cape Buffalo and then a Crawshay’s Zebra.

A Kingfisher in some woodland made me think Woodland Kingfisher but they were not back yet and it was a Brown-hooded Kingfisher; still, took more photos of it though!

Goliath!

A scenic shot of the Luangwa was taken before I spotted another bird I had always wanted to see; a Goliath Heron, magnificent! The heron was followed by a female Kudu, 2 Banded Mongoose, a sub adult African Fish Eagle perched on some washed up tree limbs, a Little Bee-eater and Ring-necked Dove and my first Red-billed Quelea.

Now back on the shore of the river and waiting for the boat to arrive a couple of Zambians were fishing in a ‘dug-out canoe’, which I can only imagine being no problem to an angry Hippo. However, life and the need to survive are very different here. I have always acknowledged that the term being ‘educated’ is the ability to survive in the environment you live in and not the western view of what being educated is!

Just before arriving on the opposite side of the river, I spotted a White-browed Coucal on the bank, which I endeavoured to get some images of from the boat.

After a fantastic extended safari, (which meant no evening safari, but whatever!) we were back in camp but the wildlife and the photography didn’t stop there!

Bull Elephant in camp!

I noticed that a bull Elephant was on the edge of the camp pond (behind the dining area) having a drink but also spraying itself with anaerobic mud. This same individual was subsequently seen near to the side of the bar with the some staff monitoring its activity!

Back in the chalet I spotted 5 Banded Mongoose from the bathroom and this time there was not a member of staff to scare them away and I managed to get some images partially in the shade. A Brown-headed Kingfisher was also seen and photographed from the bathroom, whilst outside there were sprinklers on to maintain the grass and plants and encourage wildlife.

Later, as the light was fading at least 70 Cape Buffalo (maybe an under-estimate!) were returning to the top of the far riverbank after drinking. There was also an African adult Fish Eagle drying out its wings on a sandbank after a presumably unsuccessful fish-strike. But also here were 2 Great White Egrets, an African Openbill and an African Skimmer going to and fro along the river searching for prey with its lower mandible touching/trawling the water, on one occasion swiftly rising upwards after seeing a Crocodile! 

Come on you Spurs; maybe not!



An interesting evening at the bar with another guide; Solly at least I think that was how he introduced himself. Anyway, a really nice guy and the first ‘white guide’ I had met, not that it matters as all the staff were very pleasant. Anyway my football team Spurs were playing that evening so Solly got the match on his mobile phone and propped it up against a glass in front of me on the bar. Spurs were winning but then lost to Brighton 3-2 so maybe not such a good idea, especially with Jack one of the staff in the area who supported Arsenal!

I also learnt that Chizzy spent a considerable amount of time helping with filming for the BBC Wildlife crew a few years ago and mentioned that he worked with John Aitcheson and he liked him very much. Now this was a name I was familiar with and knew he had worked with Mike (Linley) so after finding out how to get in contact back home with WhatsApp (again thanks to Solly) I sent Mike a message. After several conversations with Mike on WhatsApp I then gave my phone to Chizzy so he could see the conversation. Chizzy was very pleased in his inimitable quiet way, especially when I had asked Mike to remember Chizzy to John when he next spoke to him.

What a fantastic day and later I joined Kiki as he was looking for a Bush Baby he had seen in the trees. I saw the branches move but not a lot else could be said! After dinner I returned to the chalet, where there was a Gecko   in the bathroom; again a Tropical House Gecko. 

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